Our first family trip overseas since the start of the pandemic generated huge amounts of discussion.  After an arid two years as far as travel was concerned, there were so many things to consider.  Would we still be able to just pack a bag and go as we had previously or would the sudden rush of people trying to get abroad mean that this may be a little foolhardy?  Did we want to go for an all-out adventure or just a change of scenery and some sunshine?  What did we need in the way of proof that we were Covid free?  And most importantly, who was going to look after our dog while we were away?  After enjoying us all being around almost constantly for many of the preceding months, he is really not so keen on us being away anymore)

We spent days deliberating, on a virtual trip from Morocco to Bosnia with a couple of quick forays into Italy, Slovenia and Lithuania.  One was too expensive, one too chilly – we finally decided on Bosnia, much to Stan’s delight and having found a lovely lady to look after our beloved spaniel (I fully recommend www.trustedhousesitters.com) I tried to book flights only to find that in the interim twenty four hours the prices had shot up dramatically.   So, it was on to Plan B, Italy, and a very happy Molly, for whom that had been her first choice from the outset anyway!

Our starting destination of choice was Verona, the northern Italian city forever linked with Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet.  But its history is so much more than the setting for a play of two lovers, however tragic this may be.  Verona’s own history is just as dramatic, having been the scene of many feuds over the centuries.  Founded in the first century AD, the city was ruled over by the Scaglieri clan for around 125 years.  Later control of the city went to the Venetians before the city eventually became part of the Austrian Empire and then finally part of Italy in 1866.  Despite the turbulence, there has been a settlement on this site for more than two thousand years, and this is reflected in its UNESCO status as a World Heritage Site.

So, history aside, in our characteristically organised fashion, we booked the flights and set off a couple of days later.  I felt like a kid in a sweet shop being on a plane again and even managed to convince my plane loving husband to let ME sit by the window for once.

Two hours later we landed and a fully accessible bus took us from the airport to the Verona Porto Nuevo, Verona’s main train station.  Another bus, with easy ramp access, took us to our apartment and after getting a little bit lost, we dropped our bags and went exploring.  Verona is in a beautiful location on the River Adige.  After a stroll through the centre of town, we walked through the arch onto Pont Pietra.  We had timed it to perfection, the sun was a little lower and cast the most beautiful light.  The bridge is the oldest in Verona, having been built by the Romans in 100BC.  From here the river sweeps around in a wide curve, with the medieval old town resting in the turn.

A wander down the opposite side of the river affords beautiful views of the city and was helped by the discovery of quite possibly the best gelateria we have ever been to.  By all means, go and see Juliet’s balcony when you are in Verona, but do not miss this place – Gelateria Ballini on Via Santa Maria Rocca Maggiore is guilty of causing us to eat sixteen ice-creams in one sitting between the four of us!  The gelato is all home-made, using whatever ingredients are available and in season.  For example, peach was the order of the day while we were there and was truly delicious.  

As we rolled on with our adventure (and I am not referring to the wheelchairs here, simply the four of us post gelato..) the one thing that struck us was how easy it was to navigate our way around.  The pavements, while a little uneven in places, were largely perfectly acceptable for wheelchair users and the setting offered plenty of chance to stop and admire the view, if ones’ arms became tired from pushing.  Drop kerbs were clearly in evidence even if it sometimes meant going just a little further.   Most of the shops, both in the centre and further out, were accessible too.

We were also struck by how safe the city felt at night.  We had a relatively long walk back to our hotel and at no point did we feel uncomfortable, even when our route took us down some empty streets.  

Day two saw us wandering around the old town enjoying the beautiful colours of the buildings.  Stan, a budding photographer, was in heaven, taking pictures of all the gorgeous architecture.  The Veronese architecture is a testament to its colourful history and displays influences of Renaissance, Byzantine, Roman and Gothic styles.  My own personal favourite was the cathedral, slightly reminiscent of a mint humbug with its striped exterior.  

We were also struck by the easy access to many of the city churches – ramps were clearly in evidence in many, enabling all visitors to enjoy the ornate interiors.  

It may be that we just happened to accidentally (!) walk past our favourite gelateria once more and of course it would have been rude not to pay it another visit. There was a little more restraint shown this time though! 

Later in the day found us at Verona’s pride and joy, the Arena di Verona.  Built by the Romans in the first century AD, the pink stone amphitheatre has survived a twelfth century earthquake and the passage of time, to become the glorious backdrop to a varied programme of opera performances, as well as playing host to many other events.

The amphitheatre is certainly accessible to disabled visitors.  There is ramped, albeit cobbled, access to gate 11, where you can purchase entrance tickets.  From there, you are taken up another carpeted ramp through some sweeping curtains to a quite majestic view.  

When we visited, they were setting the stage for the evenings’ performance of Carmen.  Unfortunately, we had left it too late to get tickets but, for those more organised than us, the arena offers plenty of fully accessible seats.  We could only imagine how magical it would be at night, listening to beautiful music in the open air, in a two-thousand-year-old amphitheatre.

As we wandered back through the old part of town the crowds had lessened, so we thought we really should go and pay a visit to Juliet’s balcony.  Oops – too late, the gates were closed for the evening so all we could see was this side on view through the railings.  Not to worry.  Verona doesn’t need landmarks to feel romantic and, in any case, that is still mildly disgusting to our children!   There was a shop a few doors up the street that had the foresight to install a lift so that you could go up and see the balcony from a different vantage point.  But for us, it was a couple of drinks on one of the many piazzas which rounded off a wonderful day in the beautiful City of Love. 

To read more about Verona and other beautiful places to visit, keep an eye on the Italy page at https://awheelandaway.com/italy. For more details about the Arena, please have a look at https://awheelandaway.com/portfolio-item/arena-di-verona/