That moment when the heat hits you as you step off the plane – it’s one of my favourite parts about going away.  After a less than wonderful start to the Devon summer, this was particularly welcome as we arrived into the Algarve and stepped off the ambilift into the glorious Portuguese sunshine.

Anyone who knows us will know that planning months in advance is not always our forte.  And this holiday was no different.  Despite trying to plan our summer months ago, a variety of hiccups had meant that this had not been the case and we had only actually booked a few days before.

But thank goodness we had!  I had discovered a fully accessible privately owned apartment which had just a week free over the very dates we wanted to travel.  Having two almost grown-up children now means that going on holiday together is a masterclass in juggling.  Add in medical appointments too and the windows of opportunity become a little murky.  So, this one week was the only time we could find that we could all be away together and truly switch off.

And we certainly did that.

Arriving in Portugal

It was a novel experience to have someone waiting for us when we walked through arrivals.  Even stage one of our trip normally necessitates a fair bit of research trying to find out about accessible transport to get us to our destination.  But our smiling host was there to greet us, along with a fully wheelchair accessible van and plenty of cold drinks.  

Our accommodation

Around forty-five minutes from the airport, the apartment was all we had expected and more.  Our hosts own three; a three bedroom, a two bedroom and a studio apartment.  We had the middle one and arrived to find it spacious, spotlessly clean and well adapted.  With a double bed in one room and two electric profiling beds in the other, we were told that the rooms could be set up however suited us best.  A large wet-room and spacious living area were also part and parcel.  

Directly outside was a pretty garden with a gentle slope leading down to a pool.  This was fully accessible and even boasted a pool hoist, with numerous options for getting in and out of the water. Despite being 21 and 17 the children had great fun with the pool toys on offer, with a blow up llama being a particular favourite! There was a BBQ which was available for guests to use as well.

The apartment itself was fairly secluded – it was on a quiet residential street about a ten-minute drive from the nearest town.  A fully adapted wheelchair accessible vehicle was provided as a courtesy with all bookings, although our lovely hosts were more than happy to ferry us round should we not feel like driving.  

Visiting Lagos

We decided to take a little trip into the nearby town of Lagos.  A pretty coastal town, there has been a settlement here since around 200BC.  The town has seen a chequered history.  Inhabited at different times by Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks and more, the Romans brought prosperity before it passed to the Moors and eventually came under Portuguese rule in 1249.  Such prosperity increased until its heyday in the 15^th century, which saw the town develop into one of the major ports to and from Africa.  As an important trading hub for many of the exotic imports, it also saw a less illustrious history as one of the chief slave trading ports.  The town continued to prosper until the 18th century when the 1755 earthquake caused massive damage.  

Nowadays Lagos is a welcoming place and pleasant to while away a few hours.  Neat cobblestoned streets rise gently from the waterfront and are flanked by pretty whitewashed buildings.  There are the obligatory stalls selling jewellery and fridge magnets, but these are interspersed with small artisans selling gorgeous pottery or a plethora of colourful linen garments.  Should you wish to, the many little pavement cafes offer welcome respite to sit and watch the world go by over a local beer or glass of wine.  

The beauty of the Ponta da Piadade

From the town it is a short hop to the nearby Ponta da Piedade.  These glorious rock formations are sculpted from limestone and are the result of many thousands of years of erosion carving out the caves and arches.    A wide board boardwalk runs most of the way along the cliff top offering a wonderful view over the shoreline.  Peering over the top, one is treated to a glorious view of clear emerald sea and tawny rocks.  Tiny yellow kayaks snake in and out of the grottoes like a trail of brightly coloured beetles and pristine boats steer deftly between them.  

An even better view comes from being on one of the kayaks themselves.  The marina and surround are full of small companies offering boat trips of all kinds. However, only one has a fully accessible offering.  With ramped access to the boat, the trained team assisted into the canoe through use of a seated sling.  All kayaks are made for two.  Add in a friendly instructor and we were off.  Rodrigo took us in and out of caves and under arches. They had evocative names such as Elephant’s Cave, the Cathedral and the Kitchen.   A couple required a small level of skill to manoeuvre, but it was a great way to spend the morning. It was then nicely rounded off with an icy dip into the Atlantic. 

The Algarve equals beach time

No trip to the Algarve would be complete without a visit to the beach. While not always the easiest destination for those with mobility difficulties, nearby Praia de Luz has got this covered. There are beach wheelchairs available to borrow and a wooden boardwalk enables wheelchair users to access the beach. Unfortunately, this does not go all the way to the sea, so going in the water is still tricky.

The town itself if pretty and atmospheric with small stalls lining the route down to the beach in the evening. While the front is fairly flat there is a bit of a hill should one want to explore the whole town. However, it is possible to park right by the beach with a blue badge.

The end of the world in Sagres

Another short day trip, in the opposite direction, was the to the coastal town of Sagres.  Forty minutes or so away and after getting to grips with going the wrong way round roundabouts (!) we arrived in the small sleepy town.  

Sagres sits right on the south westernmost tip of Europe. As such it was, for a long time, considered to be the end of the world.  Earlier day explorers would have been faced with a large bay, before the sea rolls out to the infinite beyond.  The imposing fortress sits proudly over the headland, dominating the view for many miles, meaning nobody would have been able to arrive or leave unnoticed.  It reminded me a little of tumbleweed towns from old spaghetti westerns.  Definite indications of its former importance are in evidence as one drives into the town. Signs are unnecessary as the fortress dominates the main road in.  Now, however, it is largely mellowed by the passage of time and the intense sun, offering a taste of what would have been.

From the fortress, there is a lovely route along the cliffs. This reinforces the sense of there being nothing else as far as the eye can see.  Smooth paths follow the route. For the more adventurous, there are vantage points where you can dip off the path and get nearer the edge.  And of course, the obligatory photo at the end of the world must be taken!  

Looping back towards the fort there is a lovely little bay, guarded by a dragon shaped rock, creating all sorts of story-telling possibilities.  

The landscape is quite barren, rocky and pitted with a small smattering of slightly shrivelled plants.  Yet it is rather beautiful, especially when offset against the soft, glittering sea that promises of all kinds of adventures.

Step away from the clifftop and into the town – it has a quiet feel.  Surfers hang out and dip in and out of the many surf shacks that dot the centre.  Lunches are simple affairs but taken at leisure.  

The verdict?

I will admit that the Algarve was not my first choice of holiday destination.  But I was happily surprised.  Our apartment was peaceful and the local town retained all of its charm and authenticity.  People were incredibly friendly, whether that that was the slightly Brad Pitt lookalike who braided Molly’s hair or the gorgeous elderly couple who told us all about their gardening and cooking teamwork at the local market.

Which incidentally is well worth a visit.  Held every Saturday morning, the Lagos Farmers Market is the genuine article.  Staffed entirely by local producers, it was full to bursting with the largest tomatoes, juiciest peaches and incredible local produce.  Like hot sauce but not sure how hot you want it?  One stall had a novel way of differentiating.  Jars were labelled hot: hot hot: hot hot hot: and hot hot hot hot.  It doesn’t get much clearer than that!  

Then go and have a wander round the town. Perhaps have a Pastel del Nata along the waterfront, while debating buying that pretty little dress that you may get to wear three days of the year back home.  

Experiencing the natural Portugal

And when the sun starts to drop, how about a little nature adventure?  Knowing that we have a budding photographer in the family, our lovely hostess took us ten minutes away to see the flamingos come in for the night.  A field of storks sidetracked us for twenty minutes, surveying their surroundings from their oversized nests on the top of the olive trees.  Not deterred by being next to a main road, these stately birds were wonderful to watch as they rose slowly and leisurely into the air to go exploring.

Not much further on is a small nature reserve. This was only created relatively recently when the land was dredged and then flooded to produce the wetlands.  Now it is home to much wildlife. In the evening it is sometimes possible to see as many as one hundred and fifty flamingos here as they settle down for a safe nights’ rest.  The area is protected and wonderfully peaceful.  While waiting for the flamingos to arrive, we spotted a beautiful owl roosting on top of a tumbledown shed. The evening light cutting across the reserve was magical.

I arrived in the Algarve expecting something very different to what I found.  I found a peaceful haven with charming towns, beautiful coastlines, welcoming people and an imbued sense of deep relaxation. 

Accessibility in the Algarve

Despite being told many times that Portugal was not very accessible, I was pleasantly surprised.  Lagos, while cobbled in places, was easy to get around.  While not all the shops offered step free access, many did and others offered ramps available on request.  All the cafes and restaurants were accessible and there were accessible toilets in the centre of town.

Sagres was easy to navigate. The initial ten metres or so into the fortress were a little bumpy, but once inside, wide-open spaces meant it was straightforward to get around.  A paved path snaked the whole way round the headland, offering easy access to wheelchair users.

Similarly at Ponte da Piedade, wooden boardwalks offered a smooth and comfortable route to view the rock formations.

And as for our accommodation?  Our lovely hosts moved to the Algarve fifteen years ago after running holiday properties in Cornwall.  Determined to offer something which would enable everyone to enjoy the beauty on offer, they have excelled.  The three apartments have everything you could need, as well as being spacious and comfortable.  Need to get into the pool – we have three options.  Difficulties with showering – which kind of chair or table would best suit your needs? Nothing is too much trouble.

But what really sets them apart is the care and time they take to ensure every guest has the very best experience.  They have thought of every little detail. As such, Molly proclaimed that this was the most accessible place she had ever stayed.  It was certainly one of the most easy and relaxing weeks we had had in a long time!

Find out more about Lagos at https://www.lagosportugaltourism.com

For more information about our accessible apartment and to enquire about booking your own Portuguese break, get in touch at [email protected]